Hi Rod I have a copy of the polars on my boat that I could copy and send to you at some point in the future. Did have them at home but a hard drive crash ended that. Jim (More Magic)
----- Original Message ----- From: "rod stright" <strightr@eastlink.ca>
To: <frers-list@lists.frers33.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:44 AM
Subject: [frers-list]Frers 33 Polars_______________________________________________
Does anyone have a copy of the polars for the Frers 33 they could make available?
Regards
Rod
frers-list mailing list
frers-list@lists.frers33.com
http://lists.frers33.com/mailman/listinfo/frers-list
and me.
Frank Albert
--- On Sat, 1/10/09, Rich Peirce <rich.peirce@gmail.com> wrote: From: Rich Peirce <rich.peirce@gmail.com> |
Hi Guys,Need to replace the head door. Unfortunately there is not one there to go by. Judging from the track it is a sliding door. Does anyone happen to have a photo of one or can you provide a good description. I assume it is simply a 1/2" piece of teak plywood with a mortised in latch but I'm not sure having never seen one. I doubt there is any frame around it but can't be sure as it could be a thin panel door.Rod Stright
902-444-0016
902-209-0829(C)
| akelley@optonline.net
Sent by: frers-list-admin@lists.frers33.com 14-Jan-2009 11:20 PM
Message Size: 6.5 KB |
|
All,
It does have a Perko latch (knob on outside, lever on inside (who cares about a lock).
Rod, time to come out of the closet - which boat did you purchase?
Cheers,
DJB
Dan Boyd
Biogen Idec Inc
Tel: 1.617.679.2274
Fax: 1.617.679.3599
akelley@optonline.net
Sent by: frers-list-admin@lists.frers33.com14-Jan-2009 11:20 PM
frers-list@lists.frers33.comMessage Size: 6.5 KB
frers-list@lists.frers33.com Re: [frers-list]Head Sliding Door
Rod,
I am almost positive it is a thin paneled door - think of the weight savings! Afraid I don't have any pics, but will probably open the boat up in March. If you don't have better info by then, remind me at the end of March and I'll try to get as much info to you as possible.
Hmm, does it have a latch? Frankly I don't remember there being one. Door's closed - stay out!
Art
----- Original Message -----
From: rod stright
Date: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 6:35 pm
Subject: [frers-list]Head Sliding Door
To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com
> Hi Guys,
>
> Need to replace the head door. Unfortunately there is not one
> there to go by. Judging from the track it is a sliding door.
> Does anyone happen to have a photo of one or can you provide a
> good description. I assume it is simply a 1/2" piece of teak
> plywood with a mortised in latch but I'm not sure having never
> seen one. I doubt there is any frame around it but can't be
> sure as it could be a thin panel door.
>
> Rod Stright
> 902-444-0016
> 902-209-0829(C)
>
Rod
I've raced PHRF for a long time i'll send you a note this weekend on what works and what doesn't.
Frank
--- On Fri, 1/16/09, rod stright <strightr@eastlink.ca> wrote: From: rod stright <strightr@eastlink.ca> |
Hi Guys,Need to replace the head = door. Unfortunately there is not one there to go by. Judging from the track it is a sliding door. Does anyone happen to have a photo of one or can you provide a good description. I assume it is simply a 1/2" piece of teak plywood with a mortised in latch but I'm not sure having never seen one. I doubt there is any frame around it but can't be sure as it could be a thin panel door.Rod Stright
902-444-0016
902-209-0829(C)
| akelley@optonline.net
Sent by: frers-list-admin@lists.frers33.com 14-Jan-2009 11:20 PM
Message Size: 6.5 KB |
|
All,
It = does have a Perko latch (knob on outside, lever on inside (who cares about a lock).
Rod, time to come out of the = closet - which boat did you purchase?
Cheers,
DJB
Dan Boyd
Biogen Idec = Inc
Tel: 1.617.679.2274
Fax: 1.617.679.3599
akelley@optonline.net
Sent by: frers-list-admin@lists.frers33.com=2014-Jan-2009 11:20 PM=20
= < /tbody>
frers-list@lists.frers33.comMessage Size: 6.5 = KB
frers-list@lists.frers33.com=20 Re: [frers-list]Head Sliding Door
Rod,
I am almost positive it is a thin paneled door - think of the weight savings! Afraid I don't have any pics, but will probably open the boat up in March. If you don't have better info by then, remind me at the end of March and I'll try to get as much info to you as possible.
Hmm, does it have a latch? Frankly I don't remember there being one. Door's closed - stay out!
Art
----- Original Message -----
From: rod stright
Date: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 6:35 pm
Subject: [frers-list]Head Sliding Door
To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com
> Hi Guys,
>
> Need to replace the head door. Unfortunately there is not one
> there to go by. Judging from the track it is a sliding door.
> Does anyone happen to have a photo of one or can you provide a
> good description. I assume it is simply a 1/2" piece of teak
> plywood with a mortised in latch but I'm not sure having never
> seen one. I doubt there is any frame around it but can't be
> sure as it could be a thin panel door.
>
> Rod Stright
> 902-444-0016
> 902-209-0829(C)
>
Rod
I've raced PHRF for a long time i'll send you a note this
weekend on what works and what doesn't.
Frank
--- On Fri, 1/16/09, rod stright <strightr@eastlink.ca> wrote: From: rod stright <strightr@eastlink.ca> |
Okay, will do.
I'll preface this with my experience and observations. First and foremeost are:
1. boat, as light as possible. That means everything that you don't need to have on the boat to race is either in your garage or left on the dock.
Racing a Frers 33.
First triming the big head sail.
--- On Sat, 1/17/09, Jim Mormile <jim.mormile@snet.net> wrote: From: Jim Mormile <jim.mormile@snet.net> |
Okay, will do.
I'll preface this with my experience and observations. First and foremost are:
1. Boat, as light as possible. That means everything that you don't need to have on the boat to race is either in your garage or left on the dock as long as you meet the one design or PHRF rules. I removed the stove/oven on my Frers and replaced it with an ORGO 2 burner stove. Saved 45 pounds and I meet the PHRF requirement of having a stove. I don't race one design where I am but if I did I would guess I'd have to add weight to the boat. I also removed the table and V-birth door (replaced the V-birth door with a curtain) and I don't race with the V-birth cushions in.
2. Bottom is race ready. That means an ULTRA smooth bottom (which can really only be done if the paint is sprayed on and then wet sanded smooth) and I don't mean kind of smooth, I mean ultra smooth. The bottom of the boat should be as shiny as the freshly waxed hull. Also the keel has to be just about perfect. Pay special attention to the trailing edge which can be damaged by cavitation and get rough and the keel bottom which can be damaged over time by poor blocking. There is not much to the rear of the keel so placing a block at the rear of the keel can crush down that portion. Check it and make sure it is smooth and that includes the bottom of the keel, as much as you can get to and feel. Lastly on the bottom it has to be cleaned by a diver periodically. I have mine cleaned every other week here in the Chesapeake bay.
3. Sails. Best you can afford and in excellent condition. Any sail that's over 3 years old is no longer a racing sail. It may look like a racing sail but it's not really a racing sail it"s a cruising sail. Good racing sails are outrageously expensive but they really do make the boat go faster.
I've raced my Frers 33 for 6 years and I've been racing for about 18 years. I've raced the Frers in 0 to 54 knot winds and over 400 miles in about 150 races in the 4 years I've had the boat. I have all Kevlar sails, UK tape drive main and 140% & 110% Genoas and a North 3DL Kevlar carbon fiber 155% Genoa. Oldest sail is the main sail and 2009 is it's 3rd and last year.
Crewing: To race the Frers 33 well you need about 7 people 8 is better. Helm, Main Sail, Foredeck, Tactician (owner), 3 Genoa trimmers and Mast. When your short folks less Genoa trimmers.
Sail Trim:
First the boat is tender and it has poor initial stability. However it has excellent ultimate stability.
In winds of 0 to about 12 or 13 knots I use a North 3DL 155% genoa. Don't pinch and don't overtrim the genoa. The Frers 33 will respond poorly to both of these. Ease the genoa just a bit so it can breath and gain boat speed. The eliptical keel will lift the boat if you provide the speed. This may seem counterintutive when other boats are pointing higer but give it a try.
In 0 to 4 knots trim the sail to about 4 inches off the lower spreader (and not touching the upper spreader) and set the leads so it's the same off the side stays on the deck. In 5 to 9 knots, full speed triming. About 1-2 inches off the lower spreader and set the leads so the sail is touching the side stays on the deck. In 10 knots and above you want the sail about 6 inches off the lower spreader with the lead set way back and the sail touching the side stays when trimed in tight. In all of these set the halyard initially tight, you can always loosen it up if you have vertical wrinkles but it's hard to get horizontal wrinkles out when your sailing.
Over 12 knots I switch over to my 140% genoa and I use that to about 20 knots then I switch over to a 110% genoa which is good up to about 28 knots. After 28 knots I start thinking that golf is actually not a bad sport.
Triming the Main: Esentially you want the tails on the luff of the main flying all the time if possible. Usually that's not that tough up wind. Down wind it's a challange so who ever the trimer is they should be working that sail down wind a bit. As with the genoa set the halyard tight and then add cunningham as necessary to get a good looking sail. If the main sail looks good it probably is good. With both the cunningham and the outhaul the harder the wind is blowing the more you want on when going upwind. Off the wind loosen up the outhaul so you get more bag in the main. In heavy air ease the traveler first in the puffs and if that's not enough ease the sheet until the boat responds. Then as soon as the puff is past start triming it all back in again. In heavy air the main trim is CONSTANT.
Spinnaker. When you put up the spinnaker that's when the real fun starts. Expect in winds over 10 knots that big sail will be a handful. Dead down wind the boat wants to death roll very easy. You must constantly have the pole more forward than normal. Possibly much more foreward and you must be ready to ease the sheet a lot. You have to drive the boat to keep it under the sail and pay attention to your steering. Sooner or later you'll broach no matter how well you sail the boat so be ready for that. To recover from the broach agressively ease the main and the sheet on the spinnaker and she will come back then just trim stuff in and away you go. When reaching the spinnaker trimmer MUST be ready to ease in the puffs. If they ease agressively and the helmsman steers down a bit the boat will accelerate dramatically and you will gain a lot. If the
spinnaker trimmer is a liitle lax and the helmsman is as well, you'll round up and loose ground so make sure everyone understands what they are supposed to do.
Position folks on the rail so you have no more than 20 to 25 degrees of heal which will be hard in the bigger winds but do the best you can.
That's a lot so, for now, I'll stop.
If you have questions in the future let me know.
Frank Albert
RELENTLESS 41621
--- On Sat, 1/17/09, Jim Mormile <jim.mormile@snet.net> wrote: From: Jim Mormile <jim.mormile@snet.net> |
| style="font: inherit;"> Okay, will do.
> I'll preface this with my experience and observations. First
> and foremeost are:
> 1. boat, as light as possible. That means
> everything that you don't need to have on the boat to race is either in
> your garage or left on the dock.
> Racing a Frers 33.
> First triming the big head sail.
> --- On Sat, > 1/17/09, Jim Mormile <jim.mormile@snet.net> > wrote: From: Jim Mormile > <jim.mormile@snet.net> |
| style="font: inherit;"> Okay, will do.
> I'll preface this with my experience and observations. First
> and foremost are:
> 1. Boat, as light as possible. That means
> everything that you don't need to have on the boat to race is
> either in your garage or left on the dock as long as you meet the one
> design or PHRF rules. I removed the stove/oven on my Frers and
> replaced it with an ORGO 2 burner stove. Saved 45 pounds and I meet
> the PHRF requirement of having a stove. I don't race one design
> where I am but if I did I would guess I'd have to add weight to the
> boat. I also removed the table and V-birth door (replaced the
> V-birth door with a curtain) and I don't race with the V-birth cushions
> in.
> 2. Bottom is race ready. That means an ULTRA smooth
> bottom (which can really only be done if the paint is sprayed on and then
> wet sanded smooth) and I don't mean kind of smooth, I mean ultra
> smooth. The bottom of the boat should be as shiny as the freshly
> waxed hull. Also the keel has to be just about perfect. Pay
> special attention to the trailing edge which can be damaged by cavitation
> and get rough and the keel bottom which can be damaged over time by poor
> blocking. There is not much to the rear of the keel so placing a
> block at the rear of the keel can crush down that portion. Check it
> and make sure it is smooth and that includes the bottom of the keel, as
> much as you can get to and feel. Lastly on the bottom it has to be
> cleaned by a diver periodically. I have mine cleaned every other
> week here in the Chesapeake bay.
> 3. Sails. Best you can afford and in excellent
> condition. Any sail that's over 3 years old is no longer a
> racing sail. It may look like a racing sail but it's not really a
> racing sail it"s a cruising sail. Good racing sails are outrageously
> expensive but they really do make the boat go faster.
> I've raced my Frers 33 for 6 years and
> I've been racing for about 18 years. I've raced the Frers in 0 to 54
> knot winds and over 400 miles in about 150 races in the 4 years I've had
> the boat. I have all Kevlar sails, UK tape drive main and 140% &
> 110% Genoas and a North 3DL Kevlar carbon fiber 155%
> Genoa. Oldest sail is the main sail and 2009 is it's 3rd and last
> year.
> Crewing: To race the Frers 33 well you need about 7 people 8 is
> better. Helm, Main Sail, Foredeck, Tactician
> (owner), 3 Genoa trimmers and Mast. When your short
> folks less Genoa trimmers.
> Sail Trim:
> First the boat is tender and it has poor initial
> stability. However it has excellent ultimate stability.
> In winds of 0 to about 12 or 13 knots I use a North 3DL 155%
> genoa. Don't pinch and don't overtrim the genoa.
> The Frers 33 will respond poorly to both of these.
> Ease the genoa just a bit so it can breath and gain boat speed. The
> eliptical keel will lift the boat if you provide the speed. This may
> seem counterintutive when other boats are pointing higer but give it a
> try.
> In 0 to 4 knots trim the sail to about 4 inches off the
> lower spreader (and not touching the upper spreader) and set the leads so
> it's the same off the side stays on the deck. In 5 to 9 knots, full
> speed triming. About 1-2 inches off the lower spreader and set
> the leads so the sail is touching the side stays on the deck. In 10
> knots and above you want the sail about 6 inches off the lower spreader
> with the lead set way back and the sail touching the side stays when
> trimed in tight. In all of these set the halyard initially tight,
> you can always loosen it up if you have vertical wrinkles but it's hard to
> get horizontal wrinkles out when your sailing.
> Over 12 knots I switch over to my 140% genoa and I use that to about
> 20 knots then I switch over to a 110% genoa which is good up to about 28
> knots. After 28 knots I start thinking that golf is actually not a
> bad sport.
> Triming the Main: Esentially you want the tails on the luff of
> the main flying all the time if possible. Usually that's not that
> tough up wind. Down wind it's a challange so who ever the
> trimer is they should be working that sail down wind a
> bit. As with the genoa set the halyard tight and then add
> cunningham as necessary to get a good looking sail. If the main sail
> looks good it probably is good. With both the cunningham and
> the outhaul the harder the wind is blowing the more you want on when going
> upwind. Off the wind loosen up the outhaul so you get more
> bag in the main. In heavy air ease the traveler first in
> the puffs and if that's not enough ease the sheet until the boat
> responds. Then as soon as the puff is past start triming it all
> back in again. In heavy air the main trim is CONSTANT.
> Spinnaker. When you put up the spinnaker that's when the real
> fun starts. Expect in winds over 10 knots that big sail will be a
> handful. Dead down wind the boat wants to death roll very
> easy. You must constantly have the pole more forward than
> normal. Possibly much more foreward and you must be ready to ease
> the sheet a lot. You have to drive the boat to keep it under
> the sail and pay attention to your steering. Sooner or later
> you'll broach no matter how well you sail the boat so be ready for
> that. To recover from the broach agressively ease the main and the
> sheet on the spinnaker and she will come back then just
> trim stuff in and away you go. When reaching the spinnaker
> trimmer MUST be ready to ease in the puffs. If they ease
> agressively and the helmsman steers down a bit the boat will
> accelerate dramatically and you will gain a lot. If the
> spinnaker trimmer is a liitle lax and the helmsman is as well, you'll
> round up and loose ground so make sure everyone understands what they
> are supposed to do.
> Position folks on the rail so you have no more than 20 to 25 degrees
> of heal which will be hard in the bigger winds but do the best you
> can.
> That's a lot so, for now, I'll stop.
> If you have questions in the future let me know.
> Frank Albert
> RELENTLESS 41621
> --- On Sat, 1/17/09, Jim Mormile > <jim.mormile@snet.net> wrote: From: Jim Mormile > <jim.mormile@snet.net> |