--- On Wed, 9/7/11, Courtney Thomas <=
I><courtneycthomas@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Courtney,
We'll start with the bottom and work our way up.
For the bottom paint since you're not going to be racing the boat you =
don't need to spray it on. Assuming it's in any kind of decent condition a =
light sanding to clean it and then just roll on three coats of a good ablat=
ive bottom paint. Pettit has some good paint as does Interlux. The more cop=
per the better, especially in warmer waters. Take your pick.
For the Hull. Here preparation is the key ensuring there are no dings,=
low spots etc. A good cleaning followed by a light sanding then masking an=
d protecting everything you don't want painted. It is a very long very labo=
r intensive process to get a good finish.
Frequently a good polish job followed by two good coats of wax will br=
ing what appears to be a hull too far gone back. If your hull is in fact to=
o far gone you also might consider a professionally applied Awlgrip paint. =
Painting fiberglass hulls is not for the first time novice painter. If you =
are going to attempt this you need to have some experience in painting. If =
you still want to do it yourself the Alwgrip web site provides some good in=
formation.
http://www.awlgrip.com/support/applicationguidance/Pages/ApplicationGu=
idance.aspx
Interlux also provides a number of topside paints both one part and tw=
o part paints. All say they are easy to apply and get professional results.=
None are easy to apply and you will rarely get professional results. The I=
nterlux web site is below.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/finishes/search.aspx
Top sides. For the non-skid you can buy good non-skid paint and do tha=
t yourself with a brush. It's not all that hard. It will dry to the touch i=
n about an hour but you cannot walk on it for 2 days.
For the mast. I've painted a mast once and it looked pretty good for a=
bout 3 years. Again preparation here is the key. Remove as much hardware as=
you can, clean well, sand lightly, clean off all dust and paint. I used an=
Interlux brightside one part epoxy paint and a top of the line bristle bru=
sh and it flowed smooth and has held up well. It could have used 2 coats.
If you're intent on buying the sprayer buy the best one you can afford=
. One in the $300 to $400 dollar range. Lesser sprayers will not work as we=
ll.
For the interior excluding the teak you can do all of that with a brus=
h and Interlux brightside. It will look wonderful and last for ever.
From: Courtney Thomas <courtneycthomas@bellsou=
th.net>
Subject: [frers-list]HVLP Turbine type sprayer recommended ?<=
BR>To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Date: Wednesday, September 7, 2011, =
11:49 PM
I'm in the process of refitting my Frers33 and am co=
nsidering purchasing a sprayer for painting topsides, bottom, interior, =
mast, decks, etc.. Comments on an HVLP type, including other recomme=
ndations instead, and hopefully, why, would be appreciated. Also, an=
y and all coatings recommendations, as well as procedures, would be appreci=
ated. Cordially, Courtney -- "Any people anywhere, bei=
ng inclined and having the power, have the right to rise up, and shake off =
the existing government, and form a new one that suits them better.Th=
is is a most valuable - a most sacred right - a right, which we hope and be=
lieve, is to liberate the world." Abraham Lincoln "Government is not =
reason; it is not eloquence; it is force! Like fire, it is a dangerous serv=
ant and a fearful master." George Washington ________________________=
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