[frers-list]HVLP Turbine type sprayer recommended ?
FRANCIS ALBERT
frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Sat, 10 Sep 2011 09:46:33 -0700 (PDT)
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--- On Wed, 9/7/11, Courtney Thomas <courtneycthomas@bellsouth.net> wrote:
=A0
Courtney,
We'll start with the bottom and work our way up.
For the bottom paint since you're not going to be racing the boat you don't=
need to spray it on. Assuming it's in any kind of decent condition a light=
sanding to clean it and then just roll on three coats of a good ablative b=
ottom paint. Pettit has some good paint as does Interlux. The more copper t=
he better, especially in warmer waters. Take your pick.=20
For the Hull. Here preparation is the key ensuring there are no dings, low =
spots etc. A good cleaning followed by a light sanding then masking and pro=
tecting everything you don't want painted. It is a very long very labor int=
ensive process to get a good finish.
Frequently a good polish job followed by two good coats of wax will bring w=
hat appears to be a hull too far gone back. If your hull is in fact too far=
gone you also might consider a professionally applied Awlgrip paint. Paint=
ing fiberglass hulls is not for the first time novice painter. If you are g=
oing to attempt this you need to have some experience in painting. If you s=
till want to do it yourself the Alwgrip web site provides some good informa=
tion.=20
http://www.awlgrip.com/support/applicationguidance/Pages/ApplicationGuidanc=
e.aspx
Interlux also provides a number of topside paints both one part and two par=
t paints. All say they are easy to apply and get professional results. None=
are easy to apply and you will rarely get professional results. The Interl=
ux web site is below.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/finishes/search.aspx
Top sides. For the non-skid you can buy good non-skid paint and do that you=
rself with a brush. It's not all that hard. It will dry to the touch in abo=
ut an hour but you cannot walk on it for 2 days.
For the mast. I've painted a mast once and it looked pretty good for about =
3 years. Again preparation here is the key. Remove as much hardware as you =
can, clean well, sand lightly, clean off all dust and paint. I used an Inte=
rlux brightside one part epoxy paint and a top of the line bristle brush an=
d it flowed smooth and has held up well. It could have used 2 coats.
If you're intent on buying the sprayer buy the best one you can afford. One=
in the $300 to $400 dollar range. Lesser sprayers will not work as well.
For the interior excluding the teak you can do all of that with a brush and=
Interlux brightside. It will look wonderful and last for ever.
From: Courtney Thomas <courtneycthomas@bellsouth.net>
Subject: [frers-list]HVLP Turbine type sprayer recommended ?
To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Date: Wednesday, September 7, 2011, 11:49 PM
I'm in the process of refitting my Frers33 and am considering
purchasing a sprayer for painting topsides, bottom, interior, mast, decks, =
etc..
Comments on an HVLP type, including other recommendations instead, and hope=
fully, why, would be appreciated.
Also, any and all coatings recommendations, as well as procedures, would be=
appreciated.
Cordially,
Courtney
-- "Any people anywhere, being inclined and having the power, have the righ=
t to rise up, and shake off the existing=A0 government, and form a new one =
that suits them better.This is a most valuable - a most sacred right - a ri=
ght, which we hope and believe, is to liberate the world."
Abraham Lincoln
"Government is not reason; it is not eloquence; it is force! Like fire, it =
is a dangerous servant and a fearful master."
George Washington
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<table cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" border=3D"0" ><tr><td valign=3D"=
top" style=3D"font: inherit;"><DIV>--- On <B>Wed, 9/7/11, Courtney Thomas <=
I><courtneycthomas@bellsouth.net></I></B> wrote:<BR> </DIV>
<DIV>Courtney,</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>We'll start with the bottom and work our way up.</DIV>
<DIV>For the bottom paint since you're not going to be racing the boat you =
don't need to spray it on. Assuming it's in any kind of decent condition a =
light sanding to clean it and then just roll on three coats of a good ablat=
ive bottom paint. Pettit has some good paint as does Interlux. The more cop=
per the better, especially in warmer waters. Take your pick. </DIV>
<DIV>For the Hull. Here preparation is the key ensuring there are no dings,=
low spots etc. A good cleaning followed by a light sanding then masking an=
d protecting everything you don't want painted. It is a very long very labo=
r intensive process to get a good finish.</DIV>
<DIV>Frequently a good polish job followed by two good coats of wax will br=
ing what appears to be a hull too far gone back. If your hull is in fact to=
o far gone you also might consider a professionally applied Awlgrip paint. =
Painting fiberglass hulls is not for the first time novice painter. If you =
are going to attempt this you need to have some experience in painting. If =
you still want to do it yourself the Alwgrip web site provides some good in=
formation. </DIV>
<DIV>http://www.awlgrip.com/support/applicationguidance/Pages/ApplicationGu=
idance.aspx</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Interlux also provides a number of topside paints both one part and tw=
o part paints. All say they are easy to apply and get professional results.=
None are easy to apply and you will rarely get professional results. The I=
nterlux web site is below.</DIV>
<DIV>http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/products/finishes/search.aspx</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Top sides. For the non-skid you can buy good non-skid paint and do tha=
t yourself with a brush. It's not all that hard. It will dry to the touch i=
n about an hour but you cannot walk on it for 2 days.</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>For the mast. I've painted a mast once and it looked pretty good for a=
bout 3 years. Again preparation here is the key. Remove as much hardware as=
you can, clean well, sand lightly, clean off all dust and paint. I used an=
Interlux brightside one part epoxy paint and a top of the line bristle bru=
sh and it flowed smooth and has held up well. It could have used 2 coats.</=
DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>If you're intent on buying the sprayer buy the best one you can afford=
. One in the $300 to $400 dollar range. Lesser sprayers will not work as we=
ll.</DIV>
<DIV><BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV>For the interior excluding the teak you can do all of that with a brus=
h and Interlux brightside. It will look wonderful and last for ever.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: rgb(16,16,255) 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5=
px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px"><BR>From: Courtney Thomas <courtneycthomas@bellsou=
th.net><BR>Subject: [frers-list]HVLP Turbine type sprayer recommended ?<=
BR>To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com<BR>Date: Wednesday, September 7, 2011, =
11:49 PM<BR><BR>
<DIV class=3DplainMail>I'm in the process of refitting my Frers33 and am co=
nsidering<BR>purchasing a sprayer for painting topsides, bottom, interior, =
mast, decks, etc..<BR><BR>Comments on an HVLP type, including other recomme=
ndations instead, and hopefully, why, would be appreciated.<BR><BR>Also, an=
y and all coatings recommendations, as well as procedures, would be appreci=
ated.<BR><BR>Cordially,<BR>Courtney<BR><BR><BR>-- "Any people anywhere, bei=
ng inclined and having the power, have the right to rise up, and shake off =
the existing government, and form a new one that suits them better.Th=
is is a most valuable - a most sacred right - a right, which we hope and be=
lieve, is to liberate the world."<BR>Abraham Lincoln<BR>"Government is not =
reason; it is not eloquence; it is force! Like fire, it is a dangerous serv=
ant and a fearful master."<BR>George Washington<BR>________________________=
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