[frers-list]Light Air Techniques and Rig Tuning
Rod Stright
frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Mon, 04 Jun 2012 14:02:21 -0300
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Hi Scott,
I compiled the tuning guide with a lot of valuable input from our most
accomplished Frers 33 racers. With respect to the measurements:
1. The headstay length is measured pin to pin. If you have a RF unit
they could have added the unit and not readjusted the overall length of the
headstay. I had to add a shackle to the headstay to get it to 46' even.
2. Edgar's suggestions re light air sailing are bang on as far as I'm
concerned.
3. Smooth bottom is critical, especially on the Frers 33 because of the
eliptical keel and rudder induce more drag so quite often we foot off for
speed in light air to get the boat moving then gradually head up but speed
is critical in light airs, once you get the boat moving the drag of the
elliptical keel and rudder is turned into lift once the boat is moving well
in light airs, most boats can't point with it.
4. There are some rig measurements in the tuning guide, including
shroud tension, and those for Equinox work well. A rigger might help if he
knows the boat well. Softer is better in light airs.
5. You need good sails of course and I find that in light airs full
batten mains aren't that effective. Normally the battens are too stiff and
they don't shape that well. The lighter mains really come into their own.
Good sails are really important in light airs and you need to be able to
shape them to take advantage of them in light airs.
6. Crew positions to leeward and fwd in light airs to reduce wetted
surface list the boat to leeward and help fill the sails.
7. You mentioned prebend of 20". I assume you are speaking of rake and
that does seem a bit excessive although it shouldn't affect you in light
airs. It should give you excessive weather helm in heavier airs. Prebend
should only be an inch or two and that is measured from the top of the mast
to the gooseneck with relatively little pressure on the backstay. It should
correspond to the luff curve that the sailmaker has built into your
mainsail. It is normally 2-4". When you put on a lot of backstay tension
to keep your headstay tight in heavy airs you need your checkstay to help
control your mast bend otherwise your main will look like a sheet of plywood
or worse.
8. Keep weight out of the ends of the boat and keep the crew out of the
cockpit unless you need them.
9. It is often possible to be stopped or stalled and have a small light
boat catch up. It happens to all of us from time to time.
10. Clean air, good sails, good crew, smooth bottom, don't pinch .. foot
in light airs
I did a lot of research and had a lot of great input in compiling the tuning
guide and I find it to be quite accurate so I stick by it and we,
unfortunately do not have the advantage of racing other Frers 33s, do very
well in racing PHRF especially in light airs (under 10 kts).
Regards
Rod
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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi =
Scott,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I compiled the tuning guide with a lot of valuable =
input from our most accomplished Frers 33 racers. With respect to =
the measurements:<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>1.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>The headstay length is measured pin to =
pin. If you have a RF unit they could have added the unit and not =
readjusted the overall length of the headstay. I had to add a =
shackle to the headstay to get it to 46' even.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>2.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>Edgar's suggestions re light air sailing are =
bang on as far as I'm concerned.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>3.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>Smooth bottom is critical, especially on the =
Frers 33 because of the eliptical keel and rudder induce more drag so =
quite often we foot off for speed in light air to get the boat moving =
then gradually head up but speed is critical in light airs, once you get =
the boat moving the drag of the elliptical keel and rudder is turned =
into lift once the boat is moving well in light airs, most boats can't =
point with it.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>4.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>There are some rig measurements in the tuning =
guide, including shroud tension, and those for Equinox work =
well. A rigger might help if he knows the boat well. Softer =
is better in light airs.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>5.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>You need good sails of course and I find that in =
light airs full batten mains aren't that effective. Normally the =
battens are too stiff and they don't shape that well. The lighter =
mains really come into their own. Good sails are really important =
in light airs and you need to be able to shape them to take advantage of =
them in light airs.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>6.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>Crew positions to leeward and fwd in light airs =
to reduce wetted surface list the boat to leeward and help fill the =
sails.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>7.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>You mentioned prebend of 20". I =
assume you are speaking of rake and that does seem a bit excessive =
although it shouldn't affect you in light airs. It should give you =
excessive weather helm in heavier airs. Prebend should only be an =
inch or two and that is measured from the top of the mast to the =
gooseneck with relatively little pressure on the backstay. It =
should correspond to the luff curve that the sailmaker has built into =
your mainsail. It is normally 2-4". When you put on a =
lot of backstay tension to keep your headstay tight in heavy airs you =
need your checkstay to help control your mast bend otherwise your main =
will look like a sheet of plywood or worse.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>8.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>Keep weight out of the ends of the boat and keep =
the crew out of the cockpit unless you need them.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>9.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>It is often possible to be stopped or stalled =
and have a small light boat catch up. It happens to all of us from =
time to time.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph =
style=3D'margin-left:38.4pt;text-indent:-.25in;mso-list:l0 level1 =
lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style=3D'mso-list:Ignore'>10.<span =
style=3D'font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> =
</span></span><![endif]>Clean air, good sails, good crew, smooth bottom, =
don't pinch .. foot in light airs<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I did a lot =
of research and had a lot of great input in compiling the tuning guide =
and I find it to be quite accurate so I stick by it and we, =
unfortunately do not have the advantage of racing other Frers 33s, do =
very well in racing PHRF especially in light airs (under 10 =
kts).<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Regards<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Rod<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>
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