[frers-list]Replace teak and holly

Sun, 3 Feb 2013 15:24:50 +0000 (UTC)

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Bill; 

I got my Teak & Holly plywood from Boulter Plywood in Somerville , MA, they had better pricing than Jamestown. http :// www . boulterplywood .com/ My original sole was 3/4" so I replaced with the same. They also sell just the veneer as well, if you would rather that. 

I used the old floorboard as the template, using the Holly Strips as an alignment tool, after removing all the cleats on the bottom of the floor board. I also drill thru the holes for the ladder base, table leg bases and screw holes for attachment to the stingers as additional reference points. These were very helpful in dialing in the new piece after the original rough cut. I thru bolted the two pieces together face to face and used a grinder and orbital sander to match the outside edges and trace out the inspection port. Then using the original as a guide outlined where I needed to remove material in the after section where it is to thick. In order to try and stop the water intrusion in the new piece I coated it with 3 coats of clear coat epoxy, followed by varnish. 

Hope this is helpful. 

Ed Putnam 
Mariposa 
Marshfield Hills 

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<html><head><style type=3D'text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><=
div style=3D'font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000'>Bill;<br>=
<br>I got my Teak &amp; Holly plywood from Boulter Plywood in Somerville, M=
A, they had better pricing than Jamestown.&nbsp; http://www.boulterplywood.=
com/&nbsp; My original sole was 3/4" so I replaced with the same.&nbsp; The=
y also sell just the veneer as well, if you would rather that.&nbsp; <br><b=
r>I used the old floorboard as the template, using the Holly Strips as an a=
lignment tool, after removing all the cleats on the bottom of the floor boa=
rd.&nbsp; I also drill thru the holes for the ladder base, table leg bases =
and screw holes for attachment to the stingers as additional reference poin=
ts.&nbsp; These were very helpful in dialing in the new piece after the ori=
ginal rough cut.&nbsp; I thru bolted the two pieces together face to face a=
nd used a grinder and orbital sander to match the outside edges and trace o=
ut the inspection port.&nbsp; Then using the original as a guide outlined w=
here I needed to remove material in the after section where it is to thick.=
&nbsp; In order to try and stop the water intrusion in the new piece I coat=
ed it with 3 coats of clear coat epoxy, followed by varnish.<br><br>Hope th=
is is helpful.<br><br>Ed Putnam<br>Mariposa<br>Marshfield Hills<br><br><br>=
<br></div></body></html>
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