[frers-list]Frers 33 Head Door Ratings Etc.
FRANCIS ALBERT
frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Sat, 17 Jan 2009 14:32:14 -0800 (PST)
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Okay, will do.
=A0
I'll preface this with my experience and observations.=A0 First and foremos=
t are:
=A0
1.=A0=A0=A0Boat, as light as possible.=A0 That means everything that you do=
n't need to have on the boat to race is either in your garage or left on th=
e dock as long as you meet the one design or PHRF rules.=A0 I removed the s=
tove/oven on my Frers and replaced it with an ORGO 2 burner stove.=A0 Saved=
45 pounds and I meet the PHRF requirement of having a stove.=A0 I don't ra=
ce one design where I am but if I did I would guess I'd have to add weight =
to the boat.=A0 I also removed the table and V-birth door (replaced the V-b=
irth door with a curtain) and I don't race with the V-birth cushions in.
=A0
2.=A0 Bottom is race ready.=A0 That means an ULTRA smooth bottom (which can=
really only be done if the paint is sprayed on and then wet sanded smooth)=
and I don't mean kind of smooth, I mean ultra smooth.=A0 The bottom of the=
boat should be as shiny as the freshly waxed hull.=A0 Also the keel has to=
be just about perfect.=A0 Pay special attention to the trailing edge which=
can be damaged by cavitation and get rough and the keel bottom which can b=
e damaged over time by poor blocking.=A0 There is not much to the rear of t=
he keel so placing a block at the rear of the keel can crush down that port=
ion.=A0 Check it and make sure it is smooth and that includes the bottom of=
the keel, as much as you can get to and feel.=A0 Lastly on the bottom it h=
as to be cleaned by a diver periodically.=A0 I have mine cleaned every othe=
r week here in the Chesapeake bay.
=A0
3.=A0 Sails.=A0 Best you can afford and in excellent condition.=A0 Any sail=
that's over=A03 years old is no longer a racing sail.=A0 It may look like =
a racing sail but it's not really a racing sail it"s a cruising sail.=A0 Go=
od racing sails are outrageously expensive but they really do make the boat=
go faster.
=A0
I've raced my Frers 33 for=A06 years and I've been racing for about 18 year=
s.=A0 I've raced the Frers in 0 to 54 knot winds and over 400 miles in abou=
t 150 races in the 4 years I've had the boat.=A0 I have all Kevlar sails, U=
K tape drive main and 140% & 110% Genoas and a=A0North 3DL Kevlar carbon fi=
ber 155% Genoa.=A0Oldest sail is the main sail and 2009 is it's 3rd and las=
t year.
=A0
Crewing:=A0 To race the Frers 33 well you need about 7 people 8 is better.=
=A0=A0Helm, Main Sail, Foredeck,=A0Tactician (owner),=A0=A03 Genoa trimmers=
and=A0Mast.=A0 When your short folks=A0less Genoa trimmers.
=A0
Sail Trim:
First the boat is tender and=A0it has=A0poor initial stability.=A0 However =
it has excellent ultimate stability.=A0
=A0
In winds of 0 to about 12 or 13=A0knots I use a North 3DL 155% genoa.=A0 Do=
n't pinch and don't overtrim the genoa.=A0 The=A0Frers 33 will respond poor=
ly to both of these.=A0 Ease the genoa just a bit so it can breath and gain=
boat speed.=A0 The eliptical keel will lift the boat if you provide the sp=
eed.=A0 This may seem counterintutive when other boats are pointing higer b=
ut give it a try.=A0=20
=A0
In 0 to=A04 knots=A0trim the sail to about 4 inches off the lower spreader =
(and not touching the upper spreader) and set the leads so it's the same of=
f the side stays on the deck.=A0 In 5 to 9 knots, full speed triming.=A0 Ab=
out=A01-2 inches off the lower spreader and set the leads so the sail is to=
uching the side stays on the deck.=A0 In 10 knots and above you want the sa=
il about 6 inches off the lower spreader with the lead set way back and the=
sail touching the side stays when trimed in tight.=A0 In all of these set =
the halyard initially tight, you can always loosen it up if you have vertic=
al wrinkles but it's hard to get horizontal wrinkles out when your sailing.
=A0
Over 12 knots I switch over to my 140% genoa and I use that to about 20 kno=
ts then I switch over to a 110% genoa which is good up to about 28 knots.=
=A0 After 28 knots I start thinking that golf is actually not a bad sport.
=A0
Triming the Main:=A0 Esentially you want the tails on the luff of the main =
flying all the time if possible.=A0 Usually that's not that tough=A0up wind=
.=A0 Down wind it's a challange so who ever the trimer is they should be wo=
rking that sail=A0down wind a bit.=A0=A0As with the genoa set the halyard t=
ight and then add cunningham as necessary to get a good looking sail.=A0 If=
the main sail looks good it probably is good.=A0=A0With both the cunningha=
m and the outhaul the harder the wind is blowing the more you want on when =
going upwind.=A0=A0Off the wind=A0loosen up the outhaul so you get more bag=
in the=A0main.=A0 In heavy air=A0ease the traveler first in the puffs and =
if that's not enough ease the sheet until the boat responds.=A0 Then=A0as s=
oon as the puff is past start triming it all back in again.=A0 In heavy air=
the main trim is CONSTANT.
=A0
Spinnaker.=A0 When you put up the spinnaker that's when the real fun starts=
.=A0 Expect in winds over 10 knots that big sail will be a handful.=A0 Dead=
down wind the=A0boat wants to death roll very easy.=A0 You must constantly=
have the pole more forward than normal.=A0 Possibly much more foreward and=
you must be ready to ease the sheet a lot.=A0 You have to drive the boat t=
o keep=A0it under the sail and pay attention to=A0your steering.=A0 Sooner =
or later you'll broach no matter how well you sail the boat so be ready for=
that.=A0 To recover from the broach agressively ease the main and the shee=
t on the spinnaker and she will come back then=A0just trim=A0stuff in and a=
way you go.=A0 When reaching the spinnaker trimmer MUST be ready to ease in=
the=A0puffs.=A0 If they ease agressively=A0and the helmsman steers down a =
bit the boat will accelerate dramatically and you will gain a lot.=A0 If th=
e spinnaker trimmer is a liitle lax and the helmsman is as well, you'll rou=
nd up=A0and
loose ground so make sure everyone understands what they are supposed to d=
o.
=A0
Position folks on the rail so you have no more than 20 to 25 degrees of hea=
l which will be hard in the bigger winds but do the best you can.
=A0
That's a lot=A0so, for now,=A0I'll stop.
=A0
If you have questions in the future let me know.
=A0
Frank Albert
RELENTLESS 41621=A0
--- On Sat, 1/17/09, Jim Mormile <jim.mormile@snet.net> wrote:
From: Jim Mormile <jim.mormile@snet.net>
Subject: Re: [frers-list]Frers 33 Head Door Ratings Etc.
To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Date: Saturday, January 17, 2009, 7:03 AM
Frank why don't you make those tips and tricks available to all of us ?=20
Thanks Jim
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "FRANCIS ALBERT" <fxalbert@prodigy.net>
To: <frers-list@lists.frers33.com>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [frers-list]Frers 33 Head Door Ratings Etc.
Rod
I've raced PHRF for a long time i'll send you a note this weekend on
what=20
works and what doesn't.
Frank
--- On Fri, 1/16/09, rod stright <strightr@eastlink.ca> wrote:
From: rod stright <strightr@eastlink.ca>
Subject: [frers-list]Frers 33 Head Door Ratings Etc.
To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Date: Friday, January 16, 2009, 9:12 AM
Thanks for the response Guys. I have purchased Equinox. Found the Perko=20
latch but no door.
They will be assigning a rating to the boat up here in Nova Scotia next=20
week. Since it is -25 degrees C I won't be sailing anytime soon. I notice=
=20
the ratings vary a bit by area from 108 to 114. How do you guys feel about=
=20
your rating and what is fair? My observation from outside the area is that=
=20
where the boats race or raced one-design they are rated slightly faster=20
since they are competing against similar boats they are probably better=20
tuned then when they race PHRF they do better, where there aren't as many=
=20
they don't do as well and the rating is slower. Correct?
I also notice there a couple of boats with higher rigs around Long Island a=
s=20
I recall.
Anyway, I'll be on my own up here racing in with wide cross section of
boats=20
so any racing/tuning information would be appreciated.
May need a headstay and foil/furler as the one I have has been broken, any=
=20
suggestions. Also a mainsail cover to get started.
Regards
Rod Stright
902-444-0016
902-209-0829(C)=20
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<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0" ><tr><td valign="top" style="font: inherit;"><DIV>Okay, will do.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I'll preface this with my experience and observations. First and foremost are:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>1. Boat, as light as possible. That means <U>everything</U> that you don't need to have on the boat to race is either in your garage or left on the dock as long as you meet the one design or PHRF rules. I removed the stove/oven on my Frers and replaced it with an ORGO 2 burner stove. Saved 45 pounds and I meet the PHRF requirement of having a stove. I don't race one design where I am but if I did I would guess I'd have to add weight to the boat. I also removed the table and V-birth door (replaced the V-birth door with a curtain) and I don't race with the V-birth cushions in.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>2. Bottom is race ready. That means an ULTRA smooth bottom (which can really only be done if the paint is sprayed on and then wet sanded smooth) and I don't mean kind of smooth, I mean ultra smooth. The bottom of the boat should be as shiny as the freshly waxed hull. Also the keel has to be just about perfect. Pay special attention to the trailing edge which can be damaged by cavitation and get rough and the keel bottom which can be damaged over time by poor blocking. There is not much to the rear of the keel so placing a block at the rear of the keel can crush down that portion. Check it and make sure it is smooth and that includes the bottom of the keel, as much as you can get to and feel. Lastly on the bottom it has to be cleaned by a diver periodically. I have mine cleaned every other week here in the Chesapeake bay.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>3. Sails. Best you can afford and in excellent condition. Any sail that's over 3 years old is no longer a racing sail. It may look like a racing sail but it's not really a racing sail it"s a cruising sail. Good racing sails are outrageously expensive but they really do make the boat go faster.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I've raced my <SPAN><SPAN>Frers</SPAN></SPAN> 33 for 6 years and I've been racing for about 18 years. I've raced the Frers in 0 to 54 knot winds and over 400 miles in about 150 races in the 4 years I've had the boat. I have all Kevlar sails, UK tape drive main and 140% & 110% Genoas and a North 3DL Kevlar carbon fiber 155% Genoa. Oldest sail is the main sail and 2009 is it's 3rd and last year.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Crewing: To race the Frers 33 well you need about 7 people 8 is better. Helm, Main Sail, Foredeck, Tactician (owner), 3 Genoa trimmers and Mast. When your short folks less Genoa trimmers.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Sail Trim:</DIV>
<DIV>First the boat is tender and it has poor initial stability. However it has excellent ultimate stability. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In winds of 0 to about 12 or 13 knots I use a North 3DL 155% genoa. Don't pinch and don't overtrim the genoa. The <SPAN>Frers</SPAN> 33 will respond poorly to both of these. Ease the genoa just a bit so it can breath and gain boat speed. The eliptical keel will lift the boat if you provide the speed. This may seem counterintutive when other boats are pointing higer but give it a try. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In 0 to 4 knots trim the sail to about 4 inches off the lower spreader (and not touching the upper spreader) and set the leads so it's the same off the side stays on the deck. In 5 to 9 knots, full speed triming. About 1-2 inches off the lower spreader and set the leads so the sail is touching the side stays on the deck. In 10 knots and above you want the sail about 6 inches off the lower spreader with the lead set way back and the sail touching the side stays when trimed in tight. In all of these set the halyard initially tight, you can always loosen it up if you have vertical wrinkles but it's hard to get horizontal wrinkles out when your sailing.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Over 12 knots I switch over to my 140% genoa and I use that to about 20 knots then I switch over to a 110% genoa which is good up to about 28 knots. After 28 knots I start thinking that golf is actually not a bad sport.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Triming the Main: Esentially you want the tails on the luff of the main flying all the time if possible. Usually that's not that tough up wind. Down wind it's a challange so who ever the trimer is they should be working that sail down wind a bit. As with the genoa set the halyard tight and then add cunningham as necessary to get a good looking sail. If the main sail looks good it probably is good. With both the cunningham and the outhaul the harder the wind is blowing the more you want on when going upwind. Off the wind loosen up the outhaul so you get more bag in the main. In heavy air ease the traveler first in the puffs and if that's not enough ease the sheet until the boat responds. Then as soon as the puff is past start triming it all back in again. In heavy air the main trim is CONSTANT.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Spinnaker. When you put up the spinnaker that's when the real fun starts. Expect in winds over 10 knots that big sail will be a handful. Dead down wind the boat wants to death roll very easy. You must constantly have the pole more forward than normal. Possibly much more foreward and you must be ready to ease the sheet a lot. You have to drive the boat to keep it under the sail and pay attention to your steering. Sooner or later you'll broach no matter how well you sail the boat so be ready for that. To recover from the broach agressively ease the main and the sheet on the spinnaker and she will come back then just trim stuff in and away you go. When reaching the spinnaker trimmer MUST be ready to ease in the puffs. If they ease agressively and the helmsman steers down a bit the boat will accelerate dramatically and you will gain a lot. If the
spinnaker trimmer is a liitle lax and the helmsman is as well, you'll round up and loose ground so make sure everyone understands what they are supposed to do.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Position folks on the rail so you have no more than 20 to 25 degrees of heal which will be hard in the bigger winds but do the best you can.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>That's a lot so, for now, I'll stop.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If you have questions in the future let me know.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Frank Albert</DIV>
<DIV>RELENTLESS 41621 </DIV>
<DIV><BR>--- On <B>Sat, 1/17/09, Jim <SPAN><SPAN>Mormile</SPAN></SPAN> <I><jim.mormile@snet.net></I></B> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(16,16,255) 2px solid">From: Jim Mormile <jim.mormile@snet.net><BR>Subject: Re: [frers-list]Frers 33 Head Door Ratings Etc.<BR>To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com<BR>Date: Saturday, January 17, 2009, 7:03 AM<BR><BR><PRE>Frank why don't you make those tips and tricks available to all of us ?
Thanks Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "FRANCIS ALBERT" <fxalbert@prodigy.net>
To: <frers-list@lists.frers33.com>
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [frers-list]Frers 33 Head Door Ratings Etc.
Rod
I've raced PHRF for a long time i'll send you a note this weekend on
what
works and what doesn't.
Frank
--- On Fri, 1/16/09, rod stright <strightr@eastlink.ca> wrote:
From: rod stright <strightr@eastlink.ca>
Subject: [frers-list]Frers 33 Head Door Ratings Etc.
To: frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Date: Friday, January 16, 2009, 9:12 AM
Thanks for the response Guys. I have purchased Equinox. Found the Perko
latch but no door.
They will be assigning a rating to the boat up here in Nova Scotia next
week. Since it is -25 degrees C I won't be sailing anytime soon. I notice
the ratings vary a bit by area from 108 to 114. How do you guys feel about
your rating and what is fair? My observation from outside the area is that
where the boats race or raced one-design they are rated slightly faster
since they are competing against similar boats they are probably better
tuned then when they race PHRF they do better, where there aren't as many
they don't do as well and the rating is slower. Correct?
I also notice there a couple of boats with higher rigs around Long Island as
I recall.
Anyway, I'll be on my own up here racing in with wide cross section of
boats
so any racing/tuning information would be appreciated.
May need a headstay and foil/furler as the one I have has been broken, any
suggestions. Also a mainsail cover to get started.
Regards
Rod Stright
902-444-0016
902-209-0829(C)
_______________________________________________
frers-list mailing list
frers-list@lists.frers33.com
http://lists.frers33.com/mailman/listinfo/frers-list
</PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></td></tr></table>
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