[frers-list]Frers 38
Mark Dixon
frers-list@lists.frers33.com
Fri, 19 Aug 2011 17:42:31 -0400
Hi Courtney. To chime in with what others have stated, I wouldn't alter
the rig in any way (dimensionally or structurally). The rig is not an
overpowering rig to begin with, and the area of positive stability bears
this out at @ 112 degrees (a stiff boat is @125* where a tender boat
will be @ 100*). Change down sail size when you constantly carry more
than 18 degrees of heel. Furthermore, the boat wasn't designed to have
the chain plates farther out than they are now. Becaus doing so could
place loads from the rig out to places where the hull was not designed
to take them (remember, all loads in a sailboat are designed to be
transmitted to the hull in a specific fashion. Without proper
engineering it may cause a failure in some area you didn't expect.)
Also, unless the rod rigging shows obvious signs of corrosion, don't
change it. In general, rod rigging tends to suffer less from corrosion
than wire rigging because there are fewer places for salt to accumulate
and cracks to hide.
I don't believe the Frers 33 ever had a factory option for a wing keel
(there is no evidence of this in over 6500 boat dimensions cataloged for
any of the racing databases past or present or in any factory info.)
If there was a wing, it was an after market version that was installed.
It would be relatively easy to get keel offsets to have a replacement
made up.
Regarding the rudder, it has enough authority to handle the boat in
almost any situation except a spinnaker oscillation broach (but then
most boats won't handle that either). Any handling question will have
more to do with the hull's canoe body (a quasi IMS design (read a
slightly pinched stern). It does not carry the hips as far aft as post
IMS designs but it's way better than any boat with the old IOR pinched
stern.
In short, don't re-invent the wheel. Just put air in the tire and let it
do what it was designed to do.
Regards, Mark